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Stephane Rodriguez

Breaking the V4 Plateau: A Boulderer’s Epic Journey

So, you’ve been stuck on V4 for what feels like an eternity. You’ve watched the gym regulars float up V6s like gravity doesn’t apply to them, while you’ve been locked in an endless battle with that V4 crux that could only have been designed by a sadist. If you’re wondering how to finally break through, fear not! This guide will take you on a humorous journey through the mental, physical, and spiritual ordeal of escaping the dreaded V4 plateau.


Step 1: The Denial Phase


At first, it’s easy to brush off your lack of progress as no big deal. After all, you’ve totally almost sent that one orange problem last week. Sure, it was only the first move and you fell halfway through, but that’s progress, right?


“I’m just warming up,” you tell yourself, as your foot pops off the starting hold for the fifteenth time in a row.


Denial is comforting. It’s like a crash pad for your ego.


Step 2: Over-analysing Beta


You’ve watched that one guy who’s sending V8s like it’s his warm-up, and you’ve definitely memorised his beta. Now, you’re trying to mimic his footwork and crimp technique, except your hands are sweating, your shoes feel two sizes too tight, and you’re stuck in an awkward half-squat that would make a yoga instructor cringe.


“It’s gotta be the beta,” you say, as you attempt to mantle a hold that’s roughly the size of a postage stamp. Spoiler: it’s not the beta.


Step 3: Buying Fancy Gear


Clearly, the problem isn’t you. It’s your shoes, or maybe your chalk. Enter: the gear upgrade phase. You splurge on that expensive brand of friction-enhancing chalk that promises “superior grip” (it smells suspiciously like regular chalk). You even consider buying a headband—because clearly, it’s your sweat causing the foot slippage.


You start to channel your inner Chris Sharma and go full “dirtbag chic.” New shoes, fresh chalk, a grizzled stare of determination—yet somehow, that V4 is still laughing at you.


Step 4: The Philosophical Crisis


At this point, you’re deep in contemplation, staring blankly at the problem on the wall like it’s some abstract painting you’re trying to decipher. You wonder if life itself is a metaphor for being stuck on a V4. You’re not just stuck in your climbing; you’re stuck in life.


“Am I the V4? Is the V4 me?” you ponder, as you sit under the problem, sipping water in a way that suggests you’re having an existential meltdown.


But don’t worry—you’re not having a crisis. You’re just tired, sore, and slightly dehydrated.


Step 5: The Random Strength Solution


After your deep introspection, you start doing all the things to boost your climbing. Dead hangs? Check. Hangboard routine? Double check. Fingerboard training on every door frame in your house? Yes, you even considered taking a work call while hanging off your front door like Spider-Man.


Suddenly, you’re running laps on the campus board like you’re auditioning for a Marvel movie. Sure, your fingers feel like overcooked spaghetti, but you’re pretty sure this will eventually lead to success.


Step 6: The Magic Moment


After weeks (or months) of struggle, something unexpected happens: you actually send the V4. Not gracefully, of course. The crux move is more of a scrambly, gasping-for-air, panic mantle than anything a professional would endorse. But you stick it. And that final hold? You grasp it with all the triumph of a climber who’s just summited Mount Everest, except your Everest is 12 feet tall and covered in chalk smears.


You drop down from the top with the swagger of a bouldering legend. In reality, it looks more like a toddler jumping off a couch, but hey, you did it.


Step 7: Reality Check


Before you get too cocky, the gym resets all the boulders next week, and now your project is gone forever. But that’s okay, because there’s a shiny new V5 on the wall calling your name, and you’re feeling pretty invincible right about now.


Of course, you can’t even figure out the start of the V5, but hey, that’s a problem for next week’s crisis.


Conclusion: Celebrate Small Wins!


Breaking the V4 plateau is no small feat. Whether it’s through sheer willpower, technical improvements, or some random cosmic fluke, you’ve proven to yourself that you can progress. Sure, the V5 is going to haunt you for the next few months, but you’re no stranger to struggle.


Just remember: the key to breaking plateaus isn’t just training hard—it’s laughing at the absurdity of it all. After all, bouldering is a sport where falling is half the fun, and the other half is celebrating the micro-victories (like sticking that first move after 30 tries).


So, go forth, aspiring V5 crusher. Your next plateau awaits!

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