The Keeper has made decent progress over the last year. He has traded its LaSportiva Tarantulaces for a pair of Scarpa Instincts, mastered more pull-ups than anyone could possibly need, fingered to the board to no end, routinely chomped on creatine for breakfast, and might as well have bought stock in the pharma industry. But despite all this effort, the elusive V4 remains... elusive.
Now, the Keeper realizes he's stuck on a seemingly permanent V3 plateau and must execute some changes to its climbing routine.
Here are five New Year Resolutions to help break through and keep progressing:
1. Balance Strength with Pushing Movements
Why it matters:
Climbers often prioritize pulling strength—pull-ups, lock-offs, and campus training—while neglecting pushing muscles like the chest, shoulders, and triceps. This imbalance not only leads to physical weaknesses but also increases the risk of injury, particularly in the shoulders. Balanced strength ensures a more stable and resilient body, capable of handling the demands of climbing. (Reference: Kibler, et al., 2003, Shoulder injuries in overhead athletes).
Resolution:
Incorporate pushing exercises into your routine, such as push-ups, chin-ups, dips, and overhead presses. For every two pulling exercises, perform one pushing exercise. During warm-ups, include scapular push-ups and plank variations to activate stabilizing muscles and build functional strength for climbing.
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2. Tame the Inner Critic
Why it matters:
Negative self-talk undermines confidence, increases stress, and blocks progress. Climbers often berate themselves for failing a problem or fear judgment from peers. Addressing the inner critic is essential for breaking through mental barriers. Guided thoughts—short, actionable affirmations—help redirect focus and calm the mind under pressure. (Reference: Beck, 1979, Cognitive Therapy and Emotional Disorders).
Resolution:
Develop a pre-climb mantra, such as “I am calm, strong, and focused,” and repeat it before attempting a challenging route. After falling, reframe your self-talk: Replace “I’ll never get this” with “What did I learn?” Dedicate 5 minutes at the end of each session to reflecting on progress and practising gratitude for your efforts. A clear, positive mental framework is as important as physical preparation.
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3. Harness the Power of (good) Breath
Why it matters:
Breathing is second nature to runners, who rely on rhythm and efficiency to sustain endurance. Climbers, on the other hand, often fall into shallow or erratic breathing patterns, especially under stress. Proper breathing stabilizes the mind, calms the nervous system, and improves oxygen delivery to muscles, directly enhancing performance. (Reference: Jerath, et al., 2006, Physiology of breathing and its impact on the brain).
Resolution:
Start each climb with a deep, full breath to center yourself. During the climb, practice slow, consistent nose breathing to maintain control and keep adrenaline in check. If you feel panic setting in, pause and reset with a simple 4-4-4-4 breath cycle (inhale for 4, hold for 4, exhale for 4, hold for 4). Let your breath guide you, transforming fear and tension into flow and focus.
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4. The Quest for the Perfect Climbing Shoe
Why it matters:
Climbing shoes are the holy grail of gear—a mystical combination of fit, rubber, and voodoo magic that can either elevate your climbing game or crush your toes into oblivion. Yet, like Excalibur, the perfect shoe seems more legend than reality. Even the best climbers secretly admit: that the hunt never ends.
Resolution:
This year, embrace the journey (and the smell of decay). Try shoes you’ve sworn off before—maybe that aggressive downturn you once mocked will now feel like a snug hug for your big toe. Visit the gym in mismatched pairs to spark conversations or start trends. Remember, the "perfect" shoe doesn’t exist—it’s just the one that lets you send and makes you laugh when you miss.
(And yes, you still need to try on just one more pair.)
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5. Accept Climbing for the Beautiful Chaos It Is
Why it matters:
Climbing is inherently ego-driven and competitive, often stoking fear, anger, and frustration. These emotions, though challenging, are part of its addictive allure. Acceptance doesn’t mean resignation; it’s about embracing the sport’s imperfections and your own, cultivating resilience, and enjoying the journey. (Reference: Kabat-Zinn, 1990, Full Catastrophe Living).
Resolution:
Practice mindfulness on the wall: pause before a climb to acknowledge your emotions—excitement, fear, frustration—without judgment. Accept the competitive nature of climbing, both with yourself and others, as a driving force. Use it as fuel, not a source of self-criticism. Most importantly, remind yourself: it’s supposed to be fun.
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Conclusion
Breaking out of a plateau isn’t just about training harder; it’s about training smarter. By addressing physical imbalances, mastering your mental game, improving technique, and embracing the quirks of climbing—like the eternal search for the perfect shoe—you’ll unlock new potential. Remember, climbing is as much about the journey as the destination. Here’s to making this year the one where the elusive V4 finally falls.
Happy new year!
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