The Videos
We proudly bear the title of Keepers of the Crux. In this esteemed role, we safeguard the sacred text containing the fundamental principles of bouldering etiquette, famously known as The Rules. The responsibility to uphold and champion this list rests squarely on our shoulders.
These Rules don't reside at the conclusion of The Path to Mastery; instead, they stand boldly at its inception. Mastering the delicate dance of balancing and embracing them all is an everlasting tug-of-war between form and function.
As Keepers of the Crux, our journey along The Path is a relentless pursuit of transcension, where each step forward is a nuanced negotiation with these guiding principles.
#0: Be Respectful at all times
Calling Patrick “Pat” or being unkind to the Substation staff will get you kicked out of the club.
#1: Obey The Rules
#2: Lead by Example
Assisting another in breaking The Rules is strictly prohibited for anyone acquainted with their sacred edicts.
#3: Guide the unenlightened
Regardless of how convincing your rationale may seem, knowingly violating The Rules is unequivocally unacceptable.
#4: It's all about the climbing shoes
It is, absolutely, without question, unequivocally, about the shoes. Anyone who says otherwise is obviously a gumby.
#5: Toughen The Fuck Up
#6: The French Starts Rule
French Starts are forbidden unless the start really sucks. A panel of at least 3 club members is required to decide if the start really sucks or if the French Starter is just weak/lazy.
#7: Do Not Frenchstart your starting time
Being first at the gym is ok. Arriving one hour before opening time is NOT (cough, cough).
#8: Don't Skip Warmup
Warmup is mandatory. Pretending to warmup by chewing on a exercise band is ok.
#9: Don't Mess with the Chalk
Chalk should be magic. Non-magic chalk should come with a warning on the chalk bucket (see Rule #17 for Chalk sharing).
#10: Climbing in shorts and tank tops
Climbing in shorts and tank tops is restricted to V6 climbers (or under 37’s or above 47 degrees incline).
#11: Woody & Roofy mandatory training time
Woody & Roofy time are mandatory at least once week, never more than twice.
#12: Resoling Principle
Resoling one climbing shoes is recommended unless one is tempted to resole with gimmicky coloured soles.
#13: Cursing out under 13's (and their guardians)
When climbing on Saturday & Sunday between 10am and 12pm, one can’t curse out under 13 (or their guardians) during this period for their reckless behaviour. Cursing children not abiding by the Rules on week days are tolerated.
#14: Cursing out in general
Cursing out the setters, flipping off the walls, and insulting the holds is tolerated but only when part of a large group. Rude behavior is not to be tolerated when climbing alone in a busy gym as it reflects poorly on the Club.
#15: Walking around in Downturned Shoes
Walking around in your downturned expensive climbing shoes is tolerated only if grimacing in pain.
#16: Belongings Management (aka, The Yard Sales Rule)
Spreading one's belongings over the whole matting is not acceptable. Edge of mat only occupying 25x25cmsq area. Over 50's can get an exemption...
#17: Chalk and Brush Sharing
Asking prior to borrowing one's chalk (magic, or not) and/or brush is highly recommended. The sentence "Magic Chalk Time" can be interpreted as a pseudo-verbal request.
#18: Respect the Brusher
When a problem has been freshly brushed up, asking permission before climbing is mandatory. The brusher gets first refusal.
#19: Don’t be a beta sprayer
Only tell the Beta when specifically asked. Showing the Beta is acceptable only if flashed.
#20: No Lycra. Ever.
This non-inclusive Rule only applies to Patrick.
#21: No backward caps
This non-inclusive Rule doesn't apply to Ken Griffey Jr.
#22: Respect Thyself
Negative Self Talk is strictly forbidden unless in the midst of a existential downward plateau.
#23: NFC (No-Flinch Climbing) Rules
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All 1’s are mandatory NFC routes
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No Flinch means NO FUCKING FLINCH
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A flinch must be called immediately by the No-Flinch Police and described in great detail
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Flinches are called by loudly grunting a random sound made mostly of vowels
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Warning: Adjusting a grip while NFCing could potentially be frowned upon
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If called for flinching, resistance is futile
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Hugging after flashing an NFC 1 is acceptable but shouldn't be abused
#24: The Nick Grading Technick
Unilaterally downgrading a route is authorised only when agreed upon by at least 3 members of the club, but never in front of the general population and even less when a poor dude is shaking mid-route.
#25: Don't Add Insult to Injury
If one severely dislocates elbow, fractures wrist, sprains ankle (grade 2 and below), one must leave the mat and wait for the ambulance in the rest area. Heart attacks, spine damage, and collapsed lungs do not apply.
#26: Thou Shall Rest
Don’t be a route hoarder. Resting between climbs is a moral obligation. It allows your climbing partners (or just plain randos) to work on your problem, it provides you with valuable time to assess your life’s decisions and ponder what you could have done differently and helps restore some sort of blood circulation in your pumped forearms.
The Keepers Optimal Rest Formula: X (mins rounded to whole number) = (#moves + route grade) / 𝛑
Example: A 4 moves problem graded 2 will require (4 + 2) / 𝛑 = 1.91 minutes rest (rounded to 2 minutes)
PS: the inclusion of the constant pi in the formula might puzzle the shit out of the profane but remember that time runs in perpetual circular motion around the clock, not unlike our planet around the sun…
#27: The Steph Rule
Shaking, twisting and (in particular) shouting on the wall is totally acceptable and even, in some cases, recommended, in particular when projecting slightly above your limit. Feeling undue awareness of one's pathetic actions has no place in our sport. The Self and the Ego must be kept in check.
#28: The "Pat" Rule
See #1 Rule
#29: Your body parts, your choice
When trying to solve a problem, all body parts are fair game. Hands, feet, knees, elbows, hips, butt and forehead can be used to scooch up the dam wall.
#30: Your chalk bag is NOT a clothing item
Bouldering with one's chalk bag on is forbidden (except for Marleigh). First, you'll look like a douch. Second, you'll make a mess on the mat when you fall...
#31: Breaking Beta
When it comes to Beta, there's no Right or Wrong. Only Top or Not.
#32: Thou shalt not mistake the crash pad for a nap pad
It's for falling, not for catching forty winks. Though, we can't guarantee you won't dream of sending that elusive V5.
#33: Don't wage biological warfare, part 1
If your climbing shoes smell worse than a gym locker room, consider them biological warfare. Thou shalt air them out, for the sake of climbing partners and the delicate noses of nearby belayers.
#34: Don't wage biological warfare, part 2
Chalk is not a substitute for deodorant. Thou shalt not be that climber leaving a cloud of chalk dust and an unforgettable aroma in their wake. Embrace hygiene; it's the polite thing to do.
#35: The Adam Ondra’s Rule
Thou shalt not attempt a dyno without an accompanying Ondra yell. It's scientifically proven that a good vocalization adds at least a grade to your dyno.
#36: Find dignity wherever you can (even in failure)
In the event of a fall, thou shalt exit the crash pad with the dignity of a cat falling off a countertop – pretend it was intentional, walk away, and plan a more successful ascent.
#37: Trust your inner Guru
If a climbing move feels like a yoga pose gone wrong, thou art probably doing it right. Awkward moves are just the universe's way of keeping things interesting.
#38: Blame the Beta
When in doubt, blame beta. If a climb goes south, it's clearly the fault of the beta – that elusive sequence that resembles interpretive dance more than climbing. The blame game is the true sport within the sport.
#39: No one chooses to be born with a negative ape index...
If thou can't reach the holds, thou shalt blame it on the setters' conspiracies against climbers with T-Rex arms. It's the only logical explanation for holds being so high, right?
#40: Don't get stuck in a craggy relationship
Struggling to solve a problem? Learn to let go. Dump it. Move on...
#41: Respect the Holds (they have feelings too)
In times of crux-induced frustration, thou shalt resist the urge to take it out on the holds like a disgruntled rock-punching ninja. Holds have feelings too, and excessive aggression may lead to unexpected slips and a reputation for being the Hulk of the climbing gym.
#42: Know where to Flash
Flashing in the gym is applauded, flashing in the play park is unacceptable behaviour.
#43: There’s no dabbing in climbing
If you touch it, you know it. Go back and resend it